Koorkai: the Winter Soul Food of Kerala

- By Shobna Iyer

Full name, koorka kazhungu, quite a mouthful, yes? Nickname, koorkai.

The koorkai is a tuber that begins life like others of its ilk, underground. Once dug up, it is quite common to find them appearing as near-perfect rounds which would explain its latin name P. Rotundifolius.

The 'P' may as well stay silent since its presence does little to highlight the shape. It's also called the Chinese Potato though its origin was in West Africa, now figure that cross-many-borders puzzle.

The time consuming part about making koorka is the peeling, a legal shortcut involves putting the uncooked tubers into a jute bag and jostling it until the peels oblige and you know, slip off. If you cook the koorka, this method is illegal. That is simply because the peel comes off easily once pressure cooked. Why would anyone choose the former method? Well, it tastes way better. Deep fried, like chips.

The common koorkai is best in fried form, you know, first fry up the mustard seeds, a dash of white lentil, a few red chillies and turmeric powder to a respectable quantity of oil. It's winter food, fried is good winter food. To this, add the pre-boiled, peeled and cubed tuber to this. Some may cut it long, some add it whole (which involves selecting similarly sized roundelles just to add to the time consumed), to each their own.

As with all highly recommended fried tubers, this is best had hot with rice and spicy rasam. Or plain.

Near perfect rounds, called spheres in polite circles
We'll call the hairs tangents
Geometry session can be had
As you eat, there shouldn't be hairy tangents though
They draw away from the food at hand (pun, anyone?)


The worthwhile outcome
What I like is the greasy no-holds-barred name, mezhuku (oil) varati (tossed till it shrivels to a fraction) 

What is Culture? Thoughts upon seeing the Sarpam Thullal of Kerala

What is culture? It is a way of life, rich with symbols and meaning.

I do not have adequate words to express the many layers of myth, legend, and beliefs that are in this Sarpam Thullal video. This is actually a 3-part video series. Please see it. Look at the number of people involved in it. Look at all the elements. Music, art, craft, religion, food, ecology, environment, people, clothing, all the richness of the land....everything is embodied in this video.

If Sarpam Thullal ends, all of this culture will die. The communities who depend on it for survival will lose a way of life. The musicians will stop singing. The artisans will stop making these crafts. The beautiful sarapakkalams will stop being drawn.

This post is not really about Sarpam Thullal. It is about culture and change. I fear that we are already losing much that is unique about our land. Under our very noses, a whole way of life is being lost through the relentless urbanisation of India. And it's not a slow, gradual change. It is abrupt change, in the space of a single generation.

I agree that change is inevitable. That some of the ways of our forefathers are no longer feasible. But we have much that is good. How do we save this?

Thrissur Pooram

One of Kerala's biggest festivals is the 'elephant festival' at Thrissur. The festivities, dedicated to the Hindu God Shiva, last for over 36 hours. They start when small elephant processions carry deities from various villages across Thrissur and culminate at the grounds of the Vadukunathan Temple.

The festival is marked by fireworks, and a display of umbrellas, as well as caparisons that adorn the elephants. Typically, the festival takes place during April-May.

See the crowds!

Mahouts have trained themselves to stand atop the elephants.

It's amazing how these elephants remain calm even when faced with hordes of people. 

There is increasing awareness in Kerala these days regarding the need for better treatment of elephants. A movement against the training and use of elephants is slowly taking shape. However, elephants have been an integral part of Kerala culture for hundreds of years and in fact, many of the majestic elephants have fan clubs of their own. You can find these fan clubs on facebook these days. Fans eagerly await the festivals and the processions.

Tapioca Chips- Junk food of Kerala

- Trisha George 

While most people know about Kerala's famous banana chips, not many have heard of its country cousin - tapioca chips. Tapioca, or 'kappa' (in Malayalam; pronounced 'cup-pa') is also called 'cassava'. The tapioca plant is popularly grown in the tropics for its edible, tuberous root. Tapioca chips are usually deep-fried and then seasoned with spicy red chilli powder.

Image taken from this video explaining how to make the chips: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=5v16Kz5PlsM

Although the chips are rightly grouped as junk food, there are many healthy ways of eating tapioca. It's prepared as a vegetable on its own, cooked with rice, and with fish curry. Sometimes it forms the whole meal and sometimes an appetizer. It isn't uncommon to just eat boiled kappa plain either.

Kappa, with a chicken dish, and white 'patri', a thin and soft roti-like pancake made of rice

If the starchy tuber is too bland, one can dip it in any available gravy. For those of us, who don't have access to Mallu cooks and cooking skills, mass produced chips are the best way to get a taste of this vegetable. Once considered to be a poor man's meal, as a substitute for rice, its position has risen along with demand. However, production in Kerala is still dwindling. The state's high labour wage rate, combined with inevitable rodent attacks do not make this a profitable crop. Let's hope tourist interest comes as aid to the Tapioca plant!

Make-up art for Kathakali,

- By Trisha George

Kathakali is an Indian classical dance form that originated in the 17th century, in what is today the southern state of Kerala. Kathakali is known for its unique costumes, well-defined gestures and of course - the elaborate make-up. Although it is paint that is applied, the effect is more mask-like!

The colour and type of the paint-job helps the audience identify characters. A green faced performer is likely to be pious, while a red faced performer is probably evil. Female characters (played by men) tend to have yellowish, comparatively realistic faces. 

A female character

The paints are traditionally made of locally available materials: rice from rice four, black from soot, and colours from various stones. Coconut oil is used as a base for mixing these colours.

Nowadays, some Kathakali performances are preceded by the application of make-up for the benefit of the modern viewer or tourist. A performer painstakingly applies colour on his face - a process that may take over an hour.

'Make-up' application in process

 It does add a whole new aspect to the performance!

Road trips in India

One of the best parts about road travel through India is catching glimpses of entertaining road signs. Both, governments and locals are (often unintentionally) entertaining. 

Not sure which advice to take- sound the horn or keep the distance? Best bet would be the latter.

Photos by Sigrid, who travelled through Kerala capturing such tidbits with her camera.

The Jews of Kerala

Malabar Jews meet the king of Cranganore.

The year was 70 AD. Rome had attacked Palestine and rent the land asunder. Handfuls of the Jewish people fled in small boats with whatever little they could.

One of the boats landed on what was then called Shingly (now Cranganore or Kodungulloor), a trade center for spices, ivory and coconut along the Malabar coast.

The people on the boat disembarked with gifts forth for the king, who had arrived - all dressed in finery and shaded by a royal umbrella. He permitted the people on the boat to make Cranganore their home. Not only that, he granted them social standing in his kingdom.


The group made the new place their home and came to be called the Malabar Jews. 

Parts of Fort Kochi today have a visible Jewish heritage, from synagogues to 'Jewish Streets' to signs in Hebrew.

Jewish synagogue in Kochi

 
Years passed and once Israel was formed, many of them opted to return and their numbers in this country dwindled. 


It seems like a part of history - of a time when rulers were inclusive, visitors were grateful and peace reigned for a while.

Santa Cruz Basilica, heritage church in Fort Kochi

- By Trisha George

The Santa Cruz Basilica was among built by the Portuguese in 1505, and was eventually consecrated by Pope IV and raised to the status of a Cathedral.

Strangely enough when the Dutch army captured Cochin, they were instructed to destroy most religious structures. This has been rationalised as a strategic move: "to draw Cochin into a more narrow compass" and reduce the area and structures that would have to be manned by armed guards. Whether or not this is accurate, it is true that the soldiers followed their order to a T. Only two churches from the Portuguese period remain today and Santa Cruz Basilica is one of them.

The original structure was however, demolished and rebuilt by the British in the 19th century and that's what we can visit today! Only one decorative pillars from the original remains, but the rest of the church is unique enough to warrant heritage status.

Ceiling of the church

Local transport, Alleppey style

The waterways of Alleppey are extensive. Boats are the easiest and quickest way to get around and many families have their own boats.

Some boats, like the one in this photo, are fitted with an outboard motor. They are used not only for personal transport, but also to ferry goods.

Cochin Magic on Silk Air magazine

Hooray!! This month, Silk Winds (the magazine for Silk Air / Singapore Airlines) features two of our Cochin tours. The Broadway Bazaar Walk (http://cochinmagic.com/broadway-bazaar-walk.html), and the Jewish Heritage Tour (http://cochinmagic.com/jewish-heritage.html).

Women's restaurant initiative in Kerala

Photo credit: The Hindu
http://www.hindu.com

Kudumbasree (meaning family prosperity) is a Kerala state government initiative to improve women’s economic self-sufficiency through self-help groups. The program is supported by the Central Government, local bodies and NABARD (National Bank for Agricultural and Rural Development).

Under this program, poor women with little access to education and medical care are trained and aided in finding avenues for earning. They learn better methods of agriculture, floriculture and as a means to diversify, restaurant management, cooking, handicraft making and pottery. Information on money management, women’s rights and payment entitlements is shared so women are able to make informed demands and decisions.

The impact: Women who earlier worried about sending their kids to school due to the expenses now find themselves better-equipped to educate their kids.

Tribal women have been able to ban the brewing and consumption of arrack (local liquor), the bane of family life. They control prices of provisions and vegetables by hiring jeeps to bring goods in bulk and sell them to members at the cheapest possible price. Earlier, families that were dependent on low-quality provisions doled out to them in limited quantity are able to purchase good quality items on their own strength.

The program also works on highlighting new areas where the women may focus attention to boost income. Thekkady and Alleppey are seeing an increase in tourism. Hotels, resorts and restaurants need quality vegetables in supply. Women are learning to grow new foods that are high on demand. Prices are better regulated since they are not working as isolated producers but as a large entity.

Sometimes, earning is insufficient to meet emergencies or social requirements. Each member deposits a small amount (Rs 10) and can avail a loan to get by the immediate need.

In the male-dominated tribal communities, the success of women’s self-help is particularly interesting.

Part of the success is the organisation structure at a grassroot level. At each district, Kudumbasree has a Community Development Society (CDS) which operates with the help of volunteers from the health and education sector, infrastructure and income generation. Apart from them, there is a representative from the finance department, a secretary and a president. Responsibility is shared as office bearers are regularly rotated to keep out vested interests. The role of Panchayat (community head) is limited so the women are free to present crucial issues like water, power or housing, earning (otherwise sidelined under a male-dominated structure).

Seeing the success of this movement, the state has introduced similar models to include more people (not only women) in the move to eradicate poverty.

Sugarcane Juice in Cochin, Kerala

Another can-do statement as Kochi prepares to beat the heat!!

Cane Juice is excellent (just avoid the ice) what with natural sugar and minerals, this drink beats fizzy colas hands-down.

It is considered a must-have for patients recovering from jaundice, physical exhaustion and of course, for those who like the taste.

Ask for it to be made with a dash of ginger if you like the idea of a slight tang in the sweet.

- Shobna Iyer

Water apple: Fruit in Kerala

- By Shobna Iyer

Any idea what this is? Water apple - Champakka in Malayalam.
Colour: White when unripe, pink as it ripens
Texture: Tough skinned and succulent
Taste: mildly sweet, sour when white
Season: Monsoon
Kids love climbing the trees and plucking the fruit. Once they have enough, they clamber down and take out the treasures.
The climate makes Kerala a great place for rare fruits.

Photo credit: http://commons.wikimedia.org/wiki/File:Champakka%28water_apple%29.jpg

Krishnanattam, Cochin

Krishnanattam - a temple dance form - covers the story of Krishna in eight parts. The first part is his entry to earth as an avatar of Vishnu, while the last covers his ascension to heaven. The intervening parts describe the world-changing events that his heroics wrought. 

His righteous defeat of the corrupt and his love of dance and music – sounds like the perfect man, tough yet tender, all-knowing yet silent, serious yet fun-loving.

That should explain the reason for a dance form dedicated to him.

The costumes are elaborate, with face paint in green or orange and for some roles, black. The elaborate head dress (called kiriitam) and masks denote characters based on their importance.

The performance is conducted over nine nights at the Guravayoor temple site with a huge lamp in the foreground. On the eighth night, Krishna's death is shown and the ninth night, his rebirth. After all, the story can't end with his dying can it?

This rare art which formed the basis for the more popular, Kathakali, continues to thrive in the region only due to the support of the temple trust.

Photo credit: http://commons.wikimedia.org/wiki/File:Krishnanattam_2.jpg

Shopping in Fort Kochi

The streets of Jewtown are full of souvenir shops like these. The ground floors of old houses have been converted to shops in many cases. If you like shopping, it is fun to stroll through and check out the wares. The owners employ ushers to stand outside and call out to you, but you need to learn to ignore it :) If you do go in, remember to bargain! And don't buy at the first shop you see! Go to multiple shops, look around, get a feel for the prices, and then buy.

Cafe Teapot, Fort Kochi

If you're in Fort Kochi and feel like a cup of tea, you may like to try the quirky Cafe Teapot on Peter Celli Street. There are more types of tea than there are teapots in this photo of a corner of the cafe.

Styled out of an old house, you may like to to see it even if you aren't a tea-drinker.The pace is slow, the surrounds simple and the place, much beloved. They serve food as well and that's good too.

Credit: http://oddends.wordpress.com/2011/10/08/welcome-to-my-tea-party-cafe-teapot-fort-kochi/

Fishing in Fort Kochi

Chinese Fishing nets- A very unusual method of fishing, the Chinese fishing nets are constructed with bamboo and teak poles and resemble a hammock lowered into the sea.

He he, Julieta and Alan have a go at the fishing nets!

It's fun to work the nets!

And see what you can catch!

The catch! No pain, no gain.

Portrait of a fisherman. 

The "Madras checks" he is wearing have now got a fashion make-over  as Deepa's friend Chryselle writes: http://www.firstpost.com/living/the-lungi-and-its-madras-checks-gets-a-fashion-makeover-59785.html 

Jewish Synagogue, Fort Kochi

Jewish Synagogue at Matancherry- Also known as the Paradesi Synagogue, it is located in a section of Old Cochin in Jew Town.

The soothing interiors of the Matancherry synagogue with huge bauble-like candle-holders is a must-see. A visit to the venue unfolds the story about the arrival and assimilation of the Jewish communities in Kochi long before Israel was formed. Plan your visit with care since the synagogue is closed on Fridays and Saturdays and other Jewish holidays. 

Photo credit: http://www.thehindu.com/news/cities/Kochi/reliving-the-glorious-days-of-kochis-jews/article5125478.ece

Malabar Jews meet the king of Cranganore

The year was 70 AD. Rome had attacked Palestine and rent the land asunder. Handfuls of the Jewish people fled in small boats with whatever little they could. One of the boats landed on what was then called Shingly (now Cranganore or Kodungulloor), a trade center for spices, ivory and coconut along the Malabar coast. 

The people on the boat disembarked with gifts forth for the king, who had arrived - all dressed in finery and shaded by a royal umbrella. He permitted the people on the boat to make Cranganore their home. Not only that, he granted them social standing in his kingdom. The group made the new place their home and came to be called the Malabar Jews. Years passed and once Israel was formed, many of them opted to return and their numbers in this country dwindled. 

The Ethnic Passage, an art gallery in Mattancherry is holding an exhibition on "Jews of Malabar" from Dec-1 to Dec-8. It is a subject of active interest to people from different parts of Kochi. 

Locals who have worked with the Jewish people and forged close ties with them and members of different religious denominations have contributed to setting up the event. Visit the exhibition and recreate a part of history - of a time when rulers were inclusive, visitors were grateful and peace reigned for a while.

Photo credit: http://jewsofcochin.blogspot.in/2011_10_16_archive.html

St. Francis Church, Fort Kochi

St Francis Church- One of the oldest European churches in India, the gravestone of Vasco De Gama, the first European to come to Cochin, lies there.

Inside the St. Francis Church. 

See the old-style hand-pulled punkhas on the right and left side of the room. The church was built in 1503 and has an interesting history.

Spice Market in Fort Kochi

Spices being sold in Fort Kochi- Cochin was a thriving centre on the ancient spice trade route. You can buy fresh spices at many stores in Fort Kochi.